Buttonhole-sewing machine



Mar 5, 1929. F ECE 1,703,954-

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5. 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 1Fi .24. 40 54 g \nvenim'. FTunNin A. Reece by WSYMCL fiU/WM Afiys.

Mam. 5, 1929. F. A. REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March5. 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet W e i vmw MAM mm K \mnW Q T. F

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Mar. 5, 1929. F. A. REECE 1,703,954

B UTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5.- 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet6 Fig 11 Mar. 5, 1929. F. A. REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE OriginalFiled March 5- 19 9 hee s-S ee 8 lie.

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BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 5. 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 9B5 I08 g \nventor. FranKhn A.Re.e. c e

Patented Mar. 5, 1929.

UNITED STATES 1,10 ,954 PATENT OFFICE.

FRANKLIN A. REECE, F CHESTNUT HILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REEGEBUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY. OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OFMAINE.

Application filed March 5, 1919; Serial N0. 280,704. Renewed October 5,1927.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines of the typeillustrated in my Patent No. 1,343,278, granted June 15, 1920, and has afor its object to provide various improvements in the mechanismillustrated in said application which result in a greater accuracy andcertainty in operation, which permit the machine to be run at anincreased speed, and by which an improved product can be produced.

In order to give an understanding of my invention, 1 have illustrated inthe drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described,after which the novel features will be pointed out in the appendedclaims.

Fig. 1 is a side View of a sewing machine embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a view of the main cam developed;

Fig. 3 is an underside view of the sewing machine;

Fig. 4 is a vertical section through the head and bed of the sewingmachine;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged section on the line' Fig. 5 is a front elevationof the head or- Fig. 13 is a section on the line 1313,-

Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a section on the line 14, Fig. 3, showing one of theactuating devices for the main cam;

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15,-Fig. 8,

' showing the other actuating device for the main cam;

Fig. 16 is a reduced section on the line 1616, Fig. 18;

Fig. 17 is a detail of the cam-feeding device shown in Fig. 15;-

Fig. 18 is an enlarged sectional View on the line 18-18, Fig. 15;

Fig. 19 shows the character of the buttonhole made on my improvedmachine;

Fig. 20 is a View somewhat similar to Fig. 9, but showing the parts indifferent position;

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Figs. 10 and 11 showing the parts indifferent position;

Fig. 22. is a fragmentary view showing the connection between the switchcam and the needle carrier;

Fig. 23 is a section on the line 232'3, Fig. 7

Figs. 24 and 25 are views of the stop motion;

Fig. 26 is a view of the clutch and stop motion showing the clutchreleased but the stop motion not in operation.

1 indicates the frame of the sewing machine which is provided with thebed plate portion 2 that carries the work-holding means and with thehead or overhanging arm 3 which supports the upper thread-handlingmechanlsm.

The work-holding means is in the form of a clamp plate 4 which isslidably mounted in ways in the bed 2, and a work clamp 5 arranged toclamp the Work against the clamp plate 4 as usual in buttonhole sewingmachines. The clamp plate 4 is given a feeding movement toward and fromthe front of the bed plate 2 during the formation of the edge stitches son a buttonhole by means of a main cam 40 which is situated beneath thebed plate 2 and is operatively actuated from the driving shaft 10. .Theconnection between the clamp plate 4 and the main cam is similar to thatshown in my said patent and comprises an elbow-lever 51 situated on theunder side of the bed plate and pivoted thereto at 52, one arm of theelbow-lever being connected by a link 53 to the clamp plate 4 and theother arm of saidlever having a roll operating in a feed cam groove 54formed in the main cam 40. This cam is provided at one end'with a hub 61which is journaled in bearings 59 and at the other end it is supportedon a center 402. 4

The upper thread-handling mechanism is in the form of the usualeye-pointed needle 6 which is carried by a vertically-reciprocatingneedle bar 7. The under thread-handling mechanism is in the form of theusual rotary hook which is indicated generally at 8 and which issituated beneath the work-holding around a bobbin confined within thebobbin 7 case 9, as usual in sewing machines of this type, thereby toproduce an interlocking geared to a horizontal shaft 14 by means ofsuitable bevel gears 15, and the lower end of the shaft being geared toanother horizontal shaft 16 by means of suitable bevel gears 17. Theupper shaft 14 is that which operates to reciprocate the needle, saidshaft carrying at its outer end a crank pin 18 which is connected by alink 19 to the needle bar 7 The lower shaft 16 is geared to a shaft 20by means of gearing 21 and the hook 8 is carried by the shaft 20.

In order to provide means for adjusting the hook 8 so that it willoperate in proper time with the movements of the needle 6, I propose tomake the shaft 16 in sections and to use an adjustable coupling betweenthese sections. This construction is shown in Fig. 4 wherein the shaft16 is shown as having one section provided with the beveled gear. 17 andanother section 16 which is provided with a spiral gear 21. Thefirst-named section has asleeve 190 fast thereon which sleeve projectsbeyond the end of the shaft and is provided with the interior beveledsurface 191. The end of the shaft section 16 extends into the end of thesleeve 190 and it has mounted thereon a split cone-shaped clampin memher192 which is adapted to engage t e cone face 191 of the sleeve 190. 193is a clamping nut screw-threaded to the sleeve 190 and adapted to bearagainst the end of the clamping member 192. When the nut 193 istightened the clamping member 192 will be forced into the cone end 191of the sleeve 190, this operation resulting in contracting the clampingmember 192 and causing it to clamp firmly the shaft section 16*. If itis desired to make any adjustment m the relative position of the hookand the needle, this can be readily done by loosening the nut 193thereby relieving the clamping pressure,-aft-er which.

the shaft section 16 is free to be turned relative to the other sectionof the shaft. When the proper adjusmentis made and the nut 193 istightened the two shaft sections will be rigidly clamped together.

The stitching mechanism is of that type in which the needle 6 has alateral jogging motion as it reciprocates so that the alternate needlethrusts are made at the center line of the buttonhole, and the otherthrusts are made through the goods at a distance back from said centerline thereby to form the edge stitches s of the buttonhole. Thenecessary jogging movement of the needle is accomplished by meanssomewhat similar to that shown in my above-mentioned application. Theneedle bar 7 reciprocates in bearings 22 formed in a frame or carrier 23which is provided with arms 24 that are pivoted at 25 to two blocks brsupports 26. Said carrier is connected by a link 27 to ahorizontallyswinging arm 28 that is pivoted to the frame at 29, said armcarrying a shoe 30 which operates in a switch cam 31 of usualconstruction that is carried by the shaft 14. This switch cam operates1n usual way to give the arm 28 a vibratory motion which is communicatedthrough the link 27 to the carrier 23, said cam operating to vibrate thecarrier at one-half the speed at which the needle is reciprocated, sothat the alternate thrust of the needle will be through the goods at theslit of the buttonhole, and the other thrusts will be through the goodsat a distance back from the slit.

The needle bar carrier not only has its jogging movement abovedescribed, but also has an added movement at the ends of the buttonholeby which the barring stitches b are formed and which results in shiftingthe needle from one side of the buttonhole to the other. Thisaddedmovement is given to it by moving the blocks or carriers 26, as inmy above-mentioned patent. said patent the movement of the blocks orcarriers is a vibratory movement with the resultthatbarringstitches ofdifferent lengths are produced. In the device herein illustrated,however, such movement of the blocks or carriers at each end of thebuttonhole is an intermittent movement in one direction with the resultthat the barring stitches are of the same length but have a progressivearrange ment transversely of the buttonhole. These blocks or carriers 26are mounted in ways or rooves 32 and each is connected by atoggleeverconnection 34 to a vertically-extending rock-shaft 33 which ispivoted in the frame. The lower toggle-lever connection is connected bya link 35 to an arm 36 which is mounted on a vertically-extendingrock-shaft an arm 38 carrying a roll that operates in a barring camgroove 39 formed in the main cam 40. The lateral swinging movement ofthe arm 38 will thus operate to straighten or buckle the toggle levers34 thereby moving the blocks or carriers 26 in their grooves 32. In thepresent mechanism the barring cam groove 39 is utilized to controldevices that operate to stop the machine at the correct time, and henceit has a greater throw than is necessary to produce the required bodilymovement of the blocks or carriers 26. I, therefore, propose to employ areducing connection between the shaft 37 and arm 36 by which the arm 36will have a less swinging movement than if it were connected directly.to the shaft 37. This special connection is In the device of L shown inFigs. 7 and 8, and it comprises an oscillating member 41 loosely mountedon a stud 42 and provided with a pin 43 which operates in a recessformed in the under side of the arm 36 and also provided with a tooth-14 which is received in a notch 4-5 formed in the shaft- 37. This tooth4i and notch 45 constitute a gear connection by which the oscillatingmovement of the shaft. 3? is transmitted to the rocking member ll, andthe. rocking movement of the member 11 is in turn transmitted'to the arm23) through the pin 43.

The above parts are so constructed that the amplitude of oscillatingmovement which is given to the arm 36 is less than that which it wouldhave if it were made fast to the shaft. 37. It will not be necessary touse this re.- ducing connection except where the barring cam has athrowgreater than necessary to produce the required movement in the blocks26.

The cam groove 39 is so designed that it will turn the shafts 37 therebyto give a uni directional bodily movement to the blocks 26 and thecarrier 23 at each end of the huttonhole. but will hold said shaft andblocks stationary ,duringthe formation of the edge stitches s.

' I have provided herein an adjustable connection between the link 35and arm 36 by which the extent of the bodily movement of the blocks 26and thus the length of the bar on the buttonhole may be varied. The arm36 is provided with a slot 46 and the link 35 1s forked at its'end toembrace the arm 36, the two arms of the fork being connected by a pin t?which operates in the slot 46. The link 35 carries a nut through whichis screw-threaded an adjusting screw 48 that is rotatably mounted inbearings 49 carried by the arm 36. This nut is slidably mounted on thelink so that it can move longitudinally thereof as the link is adjustedtowards the ends of the slot. The outer end of this screw 4-8is'accessible through the side of the frame and is provided with ascrew-driver slot by which the screw may be turned to adjust theposition of the link 35 in the slot -16.

It will be remembered that the main cam lt) is provided with the feedingcam groove 5t by which the work is given its feeding 1novement andalsowith the barring cam groove 39 which operates the barring mechanism.These cam grooves are shown develo ed in Fig. The feeding cam groove hasthe two tion of barring stitches at the end of the buttonhole, in theother inclined portion durbuttonhole, and in the. other intermediateportion 56 during the barring at the other end of the buttonhole.

The barring groove 39 is provided with the two straight portions 57which are situated opposite the feeding portions 55 of the feedinggroove and with the inclined barring portions 58 situated between thestraight portions 57. Hence when the feeding portion 55 of the feedinggroove is acting on the lever. 51 to give the work clamp its feedingmove ment one of the straight portions 57 of the bar ing groove 39 isacting on the follower on the arm 38 thereby holding, the barringmechanism inactive, and when the stitching on one side of the buttonholeis completed the follower on the elbow-lever 51 will pass into theportion 56 of the cam groove 54: and the.

follower on the arm 38 will pass into the barring portion 58 of thebarring groove 39. While the follower on the arm 38 is traversing theportion 58 during the formation of the barring stitches, the arm 38 willbe given a gradual swinging movement which will operate through theshaft 3?, arm 36 and toggles 3-]: to give the blocks 26 a gradualmovement transversely ofthe line of feed or in the direction of theogging movement of the needle. This gradual bodily movement of theblocks 26 produces the barring stitches Z). If the portion 56 of the camgroove 5% is straight, then there will be no feeding movement of thework during the formation of the barring stitches and'the barringstitches will be in the same transverse line. I-will preferably makethis portion 56 of the came groove with a gradual rise toward the centerso that during theformation of half the ha rring stitches there will bea very slow feeding movement of the work-holding means'in one direction,and during-the. formatitm'of the final barring stitches there. will be aslow feeding movement in the opposite direction. This will cause thebarring stitches I) to have the arrai'igement shown in Fig. 19. Thedistance which the blocks or carriers 26 are moved forward at each stepof the unidirectioi'ial forward movement is considerably less than thejogging movement of the needle and said movement is in a directionsubstantially par allel to the path of the needle during its joggingmovement.

The main cam is actuated from the drivingshaft 16 by two separateactuating devices one of which is operative to drive said cam during theformation of the edge sitches s, and the other of which is operative todrive the cam during the formation of the barring stitches b. Theactuating device for driving said cam during the formation of the edgestitches s of the buttonhole is shown in Fig. 14 and it comprises aclutch member 60 loosely mounted on the hub 61 of the cam member andhaving two dogs 62 pivoted ltltl llO lit)

thereto at 64 and the ends of which are adapted to engage the clutchsurface 63 formed on the cam 10. These clutch dogs are so constructedthat when the clutch member 60 is turned in the direction of the arrowin Fig. 14-, they will clutch the surface 63 so as to drive the camforward, while when the clutch member turns in the opposite direction,they will ride over the surface 63. These dogs are held in theiroperative position by means of springs 65.

The clutch member is given an oscillatory movement from the main drivingshaft- 10 by means of an eccentric 66 thereon, the eccentric strap 67 ofwhich is provided with an arm 68 that is pivotally connected to theclutch member 60 at 69. This clutch actuator is operative continuouslywhen the machine is running.

The other actuating device which operates to give the cam 40 itsmovement during the formation of the barring stitches is situated tooperate on the other end of the cam and is illustrated in Figs. 3, 15,16 and 18. The construction of the cam grooves in the cam -10 is such asto necessitate a faster turning movement of the cam during the formationof barring stitches than during the formation of the edge stitches.Hence when the cam is, rotated at the increased speed for the formationof the barring stitches, said cam will simply be carried ahead of theclutch dogs 62.

The actuator for operating the cam during the formation of the barringstitches comprises an eccentric 70 on the shaft 10 with. whichco-operates an eccentric strap 71 having an arm 72 which leads to andactuates a clutch device that is arranged to become automaticallyoperative when the edge stitches on the buttonhole are completed and tore maiii operative until the barring stitches are completed. The end ofthe cam 40 1s recessed and situated Within the recess is a floating ring'73 which is normally disconnected from the cam. Situated Within therlng 1s an expansion clutch member 74 which is connected at 77 to thearm 72 of the eccentric and is thereby given an oscillatory movement.Means are provided for expanding this clutch member 74 thereby clutchingit to the ring 73 during its movement in one direction and forunclutching it from said ring during its movement in the oppositedirection. The ring 73 is thus'fed forward with an inter mittentmovement. The clutch member 74 is expanded to clutch it to the ring 73by means of two toggle elements 75 which are pivoted to the clutchmember 7 4 at opposite sides of the split therein so that when thecentral pivotal point 76 of said toggle memhers is forced outwardly tostraighten the toggle, the clutch member 74 will be expanded. The clutchmember 74 is pivotally connected to the end of the arm 72 at 77 so thatthe operation of the eccentric 70 will give oscillation to the clutchmember. Loosely mounted on the hub of the cam is a controlling member 78which is provided with a cam surface 79 adapted to engage the togglelevers 75 at the point 76. This member 78 is provided with an arm 80which is engagedby a pin 81 situated within and extending longitudinallyof the eccentric arm 72. The inner end of this pin 81 is provided with aroll 82 which is adapted to engage a cam face 83 formed on the eccentric70. This cam face has a high portion 86 and a low portion 85, and thearm 80 is acted on by a spring 84 which holds the roll in engagementwith the cam face. During each rotation of the shaft 10 and eccentric 70the entire cam face 83, including both the high portion and the lowportion, will travel under the roll 82. When the roll is resting againstthe low portion 85 the action of the spring 84 will pull the arm 80inwardly, thus turning the controller 78 sufficiently to withdraw thecam 79 from engagement with the toggle lever 75, thus allowing thetoggle to break sufliciently to rclease the clutch 7 4 from itsclutching engagement with the ring 73. hen, however. the roll passesonto the high portion 86 of the cam face, as shown in Fig. 15, the pin81 is moved outwardly thereby acting against the arm 80 and turning thecontroller 78 so as to bring the cam 79 against the portion 76 of thetoggle member 7 5 and straightening the latter thereby expanding theclutch and clutching the latter to the ring 73. Thus during One-halfrevolution of the shaft 10 and while the eccentric arm 72 is nnoving inone direction, the clutch member 74 will be clutched to the ring 73thereby turning the latter, while during the other. half revolution ofthe shaft the clutch 74 will be free. The ring 73 is thus given anintermittent forward movement continuously while the machine is inoperation. The construction of the cam face 83 on the eccentric 70 issuch that the 'toggle levers 75 are not broken until the eccentricreaches the limit of its movement in one direction and, therefore. the.clutch 74 is connected to the ring 73 during the entire forward movementthereof and is not released until the ring has been brought to rest.Consequently the ring will be positively brought to rest at the end ofeach forward movement obviating the possibility of the ring overrunning.The clutch 74 is'thus brought into clutching engagement at the end ofthe return stroke and is maintained in clutching engagement until theend of the entire forward movement said clutch has a forward drivingaction on the driven member 73 during the first part of the forwardstroke and a retarding action on the last part of the forward strokethus bringing the memher 7 3 and the cam to rest at the end of theforward stroke. Such a clutch maybe described as a clutch having atwo-way clutching engagement or may be described as a two-way clutch, bywhich ismeant a clutch that resists relative movement between the twoclutch members either in a forward or backward direction. During theformation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole the ring 73 is freefrom the cam 4L0 and the cam is, therefore, given its forward movementthrough the actuating device shown in Fig. 14. When the edge stitchingon either side of the buttonhole is completed, then the ring 7 3 isautomatically clutched to the cam 40 with the result that the cam willbe given a forward movement through the actuating device shown in Fig.15. The eccentricity of the eccentric 70 is much greater than that ofthe eccentric 66, and, therefore, the cam will be moved further at eachforward step during the formation of the barring stitches than duringthe formation of the edge stitches.

The means for clutching the ring 73 to the cam comprises an expandingclutch member 87 which is situated inside of the ring and is rigidlysecured to the cam 40 by means of the screw 88. This expanding clutchmember 87 is in the form of a split band and the two free ends areconnected by a toggle member 89 which when straightened expands theclutch member 87 thereby clutching it to the ring 7 3. The controller 78is made in two parts and one of them has two cam members 90 thereonwhich are situated to be engaged by the toggle member 89 as the cam 40rotates. These cams are so constructed that when the toggle member 89'is brought onto either cam, the latter will straighten the togglesufiiciently to expand the clutch 87 thereby clutching the ring 7 3 tothe cam 40.- The controller, it will be remembered, has an oscillatorymovement and the cams 90, therefore, have a vibratory movement due tothe oscillations of the controller. When the cam 40 has reached such aposition in its rotative movement due to the operation of the clutchmember that the toggle 89 is about to ride onto one of the cam members90, then during the next backward oscillation of the controller 7 8,said cam will be carried under the toggle 89 thereby straightening thelatter and clutching the ring 73 to the cam 40. This operation ofclutching the ring 73 to the cam 40 will occur when the controller 78 isapproximately at its back dead center.

It will be remembered that the ring 73 is fed forward at each forwardmovement of the controller 78 and hence as soon as the clutch87 hasbeen. expanded, as above defed from the ring 7 3 which in turn is operated from the eccentric 70. This feeding movement of the main cam willbe an intermittent movement, said cam moving forward oscillation of thecontroller and remaining stationary when the controller movesbackwardly. Consequently at each backward movement of the controller theoperative cam 90 will have a backward movement relative to the toggle89. After the main cam 40 has been fed forward a predetermined distancethrough the operation of the ring 73, the toggle member 89 will pass offfrom the cam 90 thereby releasing the clutch 87 and unclutching the maincam from the ring 73. Owing to the oscillating movement of thecontroller this release of the cam member 90 from the toggle 89 willalways occur at the forward dead center of the controller 78 and thusthe main cam 40 will always be brought into a predetermined position atthe time it is released from'the clutch ring 7 3. As soon as the cam isthus unclutched from theclutch ring 73, then it will derive its feedingmovement from the clutchmember 60. The rotative movement which the maincam 40 derives from the clutch 60 is less rapid than that which itderives through the ring 7 3, and it is, therefore, important that thetime of changing the feed of the main cam 40 from the ring 78 to theclutch member 60 should always occur when the main cam is in apredetermined position and at a time when the barring stitches on thebuttonhole are completed, for otherwise there would result adisarrangement of the stitches.

The construction above provided results in positively bringing the maincam 40 to the predetermined position when the change in feed is efiectedfrom the ring 73 to the clutch member 60.

T have shown the controller 78 as providedally secured tothe main cam40. These pawls are so situated on the main cam that they I come intoengagement with thenotches 91 just as the toggle 89 is about to passonto the end of either cam member 90. The purpose of these pawls 92 isto ensure a positive engagement of the toggle member 89 with each cammember 90, thus making positive the start of the barring operation atthe proper time.

The eccentric 70 is" made adjustable in a direction transverse to theaxis of theshaft 10 thereby to vary the throw thereof. For

this purpose, it is providedon each side with two dove-tailed ribs 93that slide in grooves extending diametrically of. two flanges 94 thatarefast on the driving shaft 1t). The

eccentric is held in its adjusted position by means of a pin 96 which isadapted to be received in any one of a number of holes 97 formed in theflanges and eccentric, said pin being locked in position by means of alocking plate 98.

For varying the speed of the feeding movement during the formation ofthe edge stitches s I have provided a device somewhat similar to thatshown in my above-mentioned patent by which the eccentricity of theeccen trio 66 may be changed. This eccentric 66 is mounted on theinclined portion 99 of a sleeve 100 which is slidably mounted on theshaft 10. This inclined portion 99 is non-circular in cross-section andis inclined relative to the axis of the shaft, as clearly seen in Fig.9. The sleeve 100 can be shifted longitudinally of the shaft 10 and bysuch shifting movement will operate to move the eccentric 66transversely of the shaft thereby to increase or decrease itseccentricity. This eccentric 66' is confined between two retainingmembers 101 which are secured to the bed plate by means of screws orbolts 102 and which prevent movement of the eccentric in a directionaxially of the shaft. The sleeve 100-may be shift ed longitudinally ofthe shaft by any suitable means. I have herein shown for this purpose ashifting lever 103 pivoted to the bed plate at 10 1 and having a forkedend 105 which embraces the grooved hub 106 of the sleeve, said forkhaving projections entering the groove. The end 107 of the lever 103extends beyond the edge of the base frame and is thus accessible to theoperator. This arrangement permits the rate of feed during the stitchingto be varied while the machine is in operation and by the simplemovement of shifting the lever 103.

The shaft 10 is driven from a driving pulley 108 which is looselymounted thereon and which is adapted to be clutched thereto by asuitable clutch indicated generally at 109. While any clutch may beemployed without departing from the invention, I prefer to use a clutchsuch as illustrated in my Patent No. 1,244,079, datedOctober 23, 1917.This clutch comprises an expanding clutch member which is expanded intoclutching engagement with the pulley by the swinging of a clutch lever110 to the left in Fig. 9. Said lever is given its operative movement bymeans of a disk 137 on aclutch-actuating sleeve 111 which is slidablymounted on the shaft 10 and which is acted upon by a spring 112 thattends normally to throw the clutch into engagement. This sleeve isconnected at 1141 to a. clutch-actuating lever 113 which is pivoted tothe bed frame at 115. This clutchactuating lever 113 is provided atltsend with a thumb-piece 116 that extends beyond the bed frame and bywhich the lever may be actuated to disengage the clutch. The clutch 18shown disengaged in Fig. 3, while 1n Fig. 9

it is shown in operative position. When the clutch is disengaged thelever 113 is held in the position shown in Fig. 3 against the action ofthe spring 112 by means of a latch 117 which is adapted to enter a notch118 formed in the thumb-piece 116 of said lever 113. This latch 117 isrigid with the starting lever 119 which is pivoted to the frame at 120and which is acted upon by a spring 121 that normally tends to hold thelatch in position to engage the notch 118. To start the machine, thestarting lever 119 is depressed, this operation withdrawing the latch117 from the notch 118 thereby freeing the clutch-actuating lever 113 sothat the expanding action of the spring 112 will throw the clutch 109into operation, thus causing the shaft 10 to be driven from the drivingpulley 108.

Means are provided for automatically disconnecting the clutch at the endof the stitching on a buttonhole, said means being controlled by themain cam 40. The mechanism for thus disconnecting the clutch and bringing the machine to rest at the end of each buttonholc is so constructedthat the clutch 109 will be disengaged just before the last stitches onthe buttonhole have been completed, and the driving shaft will bebrought to rest when said last stitches are completed. As a result ofthis construct-ion, the machine will run by its own momentum while thelast stitches on the buttonholc are being formed and between the timethat the'clutch is disengaged and the driving shaft is brought to rest.The advantage of this is that the ma.- chine has a chance to slow downsomewhat between the disengagement of the clutch and the final stoppingof the shaft and, therefore, the strain on the stop motion which bringsthe shaft to rest is considerably less than if the machine was stoppedfrom its full speed. This construction enables the machine to be drivenat a higher rate of speed Without sub-.

jecting it to any severe strain in stopping it. This clutch-actuatinglever 113 is provided with a roll or projection 122 which is received ina grove 123 formed in the main cam 40. The main portion of this grooveis relatively Wide so as to allow free movement of the lever, but onewall of the groove is provided with the rise 124 thereby making a narrowportion 125 in the groove. The opposite end of this narrow portion isprovided with two steps or shoulders 126, 127 for a purpose presently tobe described.

Slidably mounted in the bed plate 2 is a slide 128 to the end of whichis pivoted a latch 129 which in one position is adapted to engage theclutch lever 113. This slide 128 is provided with a slot in which isreceived a pin 130 carried by the arm 38 that controls the barringmechanism. This pin is adapted to engage a spring 131 which is confinedin a recess in the slide 128. The latch 117 carries an arm 132 which ispivoted thereto at 133 so as to swing laterally, said arm being actedupon by a suitable spring 134. When the clutch is disengaged and islocked in its disengaged position, as shown in Fig. 3, the latch 129will be in engagement with the clutch lever 113, as shown in Fig. 10,and the arm 132 will be situated underneath the latch. lVhen thestarting lever 119 is depressed to release the latch 117 from theclutch-actuating lever 113, the arm 132 will raise the latch 129 out ofengagement with said lever, as shown in Fig. 11. This frees the lever113 so as to allow the spring 112 to throw the clutch into engagementand thereby swing the lever 113 into the position shown in Fig. 20. i Inthis position the latch 117 is over one end of the thumb-piece 116, sothat when the starting lever is released, said latch will drop onto andrest on the thumb-piece of the lever 113. The parts remain in thisposition during the stitching down the first side of the buttonhole, andwhen the end of the buttonhole is reached and the barring stitches Z)are being formed, the arm 38 will be moved to the right, Fig. 3, intothe position shown in Fig. 20. Since this arm is connected to the slide128 by means of a pin 130, such swinging movement of the arm 38 willmove the slide to the right in Figs. 3 and 9, such movement beingsutiicient to carry the latch 129 beyond the lever 113 so as to allowthe latch to drop down into the position shown in Fig. 21. After thebarring stitches on the first end of the buttonhole have been completed,then the stitching down the other side of the buttonhole is performed,and when the barring stitches at the other end of the buttonhole arebeing made, the arm 38 has a swinging movering stitches are beingformed, the projection 122 on the lever 113 is occupying the narrowportion 125 of the cam groove 123 and the wall 135 of this portion ofthe cam groove will hold the lever 113 from swinging movement.Consequently, the swinging movementof the arm 38 to the left during theformation of the barring stitches at the completion of the buttonholewill operate to'compress the spring 131. By the time that the buttonholehas been completed with the exception of the last two or three stitches,the cam 40 has been advanced to such a point as to allow the roll 122 todrop ofi the shoulder 126, and as this occurs the expanding action ofthe compressed spring 131 will give the lever 113 a partial movement.Such partial movement is sufficient to disengage the clutch 109, thusallowing the machine to run free. The momentum of the machine issuliicient so that it will complete the last stitches on the.

131 is allowed to expand further, thus giving the lever 113 a furthermovement, such further movement being sufiicient to bring the stopmotion into action thereby to bring the machine to rest.

Vhile any suitable stop motion may be employed, I prefer that hereinillustrated and which comprises a stop projection 136 carried by thedisk 137 and a co-operating stop dog 138 yieldingly carried by astationary support 139. This stationary support 139 has a circularrecess 140 therein in which is received a relatively heavy spring 141and a relatively light spring 142, said springs being separated by amovable separator 143. The recess also receives a slide 144 carrying thestop dog 138 which projects through a slot in the support 139. The stopdog 138 is so positioned as to be out of the'path of movement of thestop projection 136 when the clutch is engaged, as shown in Fig. 9, andalso when the clutch is partially disengaged, as shown in Fig. 26, butwhen the clutch is entirely disengaged, then the disk 137 is in suchposition that the stop dog 138 occupies the path of movement of the stopprojection 136. Hence when the clutch is first disengaged by the roll122 dropping off from the shoulder 126, the disk 137 is in its midwayposition and the stop mechanism is inaffective. As soon as the roll 122drops oft from the shoulder 127, however, the disk will be moved by thespring 131 into the position so that the stop projection 136 will engagethe stop dog 138. The momentum of the parts will cause the stopprojection to move the stop dog, thus compressing first the lighterspring 142 until the latter is compressed to its limit as determined bythe core 145, and then compressing the heavy spring 141 until the diskis brought to rest. A latch 147 serves to prevent any recoil.

From the above it will be noted that the main cam 40, not only controlsthe feeding movement of the work and the operation of the barring, butalso controls the operation of stopping the machine at the completion ofthe buttonhole.

The machine herein shown includes a buttonhole cutter 150 which issimilar to that shown in my above-mentioned patent in that it issupported by a holder 151 slidably mounted in the frame and connected bya link 152 to a rocking member 153 which is pivoted to the frame at 154,said rocking memher in turn having one member 155 of a toggle elementpivotally connected thereto, the other element 156 of said toggle beingpivoted to the frame at 157. The pivotal connection 158 between the twomembers 156, 155 is connected to the arm 159 of an eccentric strap 160that encircles and is operated byan eccentric 161 that is looselymounted on the driving shaft 10.

Means are provided whereby when the machine is brought to rest, as abovedescribed, the eccentric 161 will be given one rotation thereby tooperate the buttonhole cutter. The eccentric 161 is carried on a sleeve162 that is loosely mounted on the shaft 10 and which is adapted to beclutched to a driving pulley 163 also loosely mounted on said shaft 10by means of a suitable clutch 164:. This c utch is acted on by a spring165 which normally tends to throw it into engagement and it iscontrolled by a clutch-controlling lever 166 pivoted to the frame at167. During the operation of sewing on the buttonhole, this lever 166 islocked in its inoperative position with the clutch disengaged by meansof a latch lever 168 pivoted to the frameat 169 and adapted to engage ashoulder 170 formed on the lever 166. This latch lever 168 is acted onby a spring 171 which normally tends to hold it in engagement with theshoulder 170. The end 17 2 of said latch lever is situated adjacent theend of the slide 128 and said slide has at its end a cam projection 173'which is adapted to engage an inclined face 174 formed on the end 172 ofsaid lever 168. When the slide 128 is in its retracted position and thelatch lever 168 is in its operative position shown in Fig. 20, the camprojection 173 is in line with the inclined face 174. This camprojection and inclined face are so related that when the slide has itsfinal movement at the time that the roll 122 on the clutch-controllinglever 113 drops off from the shoulder 127, said cam projection 173 willengage the face 17 1 thereby swinging the latch lever 168 to disengageit from the shoulder 10. Hence as soon as the machine is brought to restthe clutch-controlling lever 166 is released so that the spring 165 willbecome operative to cause the clutch 164 to be engaged. This clutch willrotate the sleeve 162 thereby operating the buttonhole cutter. Theclutch 164 is of the one-revolution type and willftherefore, bedisengaged automatically when the sleeve has made one rotation. lVhileany suitable clutch may be employed, I will preferably use one similarto that shown in my Patent No. 1,244,079, dated October 23, 1917, andsince there is no novelty in this clutch per se, I have not thought itnecessary to illustrate it in detail.

17 5 indicates a take-up arm having the usual eye 176 through which theupper thread extends. This take-up arm is formed on an eccentric strap177 which encircles an eccentric 178 fast on the shaft 1 1. This arm 175has pivoted thereto one end of a link 179, the other end of which ispivoted to the frame at 180. The rotation of the eccentric and theconnection between the take-up arm and the link 179 causes said take-uparm to have the movement indicated in Fig. 6. The crank arm 18 liesagainst the face of the eccentric 178 so that the take-up arm occupiesvery little room.

180 indicates a tension for the upper thread comprising the usual pairof tension friction disks between which the thread passes. This tensionis carried by a bracket 181 supported from the frame and the tension iscontrolled by a spring 182. This spring rests against a head 183 on avertically-movable plunger 184: which operates in a suitable bearing185. The lower end of the plunger extends through the bed plate andrests on the cam 40, said cam having two depressions or grooves 186therein which are adapted to pass under the plunger 18% during therotation of the cam. When the grooves come under the plunger 184, thelatter will move downwardly thereby releasing the tension on the spring182 and thus relieving the tension on the thread. These grooves are soarranged as to produce a different tension on the thread when thebarring stitches are being formed from that to which the thread issubjected when the edge stitches are being formed.

I claim:

1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with an oscillatoryneedle bar carrier, of a needle bar reciprocably carried thereby, meansto vibrate said carrier in timed relation with the reciprocation of theneedle bar, and other means to give said carrier an intermittentunidirectional bodily movementin addition to and in the direction of itsvibratory movement.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a vibratory needlebar carrier, of a needle bar reeiproeably carried thereby, means toreciprocate the needle bar, means to vibrate said carrier in timedrelation with the reciprocation of the needle bar, and means to givesaid carrier periodically an intermittent unidirectional bodily movementin addition to and in the direction of its vibratory movement.

3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of a reciprocating needle bar, means to reciprocate it, means toproduce a. relative feeding movement between the work-holding means andneedle bar first in one direction and then in the other, means to givethe needle bar a jogging movement transverse to the direction of feed,and other means independent of the last-named means and operative ateach end of the feeding movement to give said needle bar an intermittentunidirectional bodily movement in addition to and in the same directionas its ogging movement.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of a reciprocating needle bar, means to reciprocate it, means toproduce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means andneedle bar first in one direction and then in the other, means to givethe needle bar a jogging movement transverse to the direction of feed,and other means independent of the last-named means and operative ateach end of the feeding movement to give said needle bar an intermittentunidirectional bodily movement in addition to and in the same directionas its jogging movement, the intermittent movement at one end of thefeeding movement being in the opposite direction from that at theotherend of said feeding movement.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating needle bar,a needle bar carrier in which the needle bar reciprocates, means to:give the needle bar carrier a vibratory movement of fixed length toeffect the formation of edge stitches, means to produce a relativefeeding movement between the work-holding means and stitch-formingmechanism as said edge stitches are formed, and means to give the needlebar carrier an intermittent unidirectional bodily movement periodicallyin addition to and in the same direction as its vibratory movementthereby to form barring stitches.

6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a reciprocatingneedle bar and means to reciprocate it. of a needle bar carrier, meansto vibrate said carrier in timed relation with the reciprocation of theneedle bar, and means to give said carrier periodically a bodilyintermittent unidirectional movement during and in the direction of itvibratory movement.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle bar,a vibratory needle bar carrier in which the needle bar reciprocates,

means to vibrate said carrier, means to produce a relative feedingmovement between the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism forthe production of the edge stitches on the buttonhole, other means togive said carrier an intermittent bodily movement during and in additionto its vibratory movement thereby to form barring stitches, said'feedingmeans operating to produce a slow relative feeding movement during theformation of the barring stitches. I

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of work-holdingmeans, a combined feeding and barring cam,means actuated thereby to give feeding movement to the work-holdingmeans, other means actuated thereby to effect the forn'iation of barringstitches, and actuating means for said cam operating to give it a slow,intermittent movement while the work is being fed and a more rapidintermittent movement while the barring stitches are being formed.

9. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the ombination with stitch-formingmechanism, of work-holding means, a cam by which the operation of saidwork-holding means and member, means actuated by said shaft to giveintermittent movement to said member, and

means operating periodically to clutch said member to the cam.

11. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a bed plate, ofstitch-forming mechanism, Work-holding means, a cam controlling theoperation of said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism, adriving shaft situated beneath the bed plate, cam-rotating meansactuated by said shaft and including a driving member situated coaxiallyof the cam, means actuated by said shaft to give intermittent movementto the driving member, and means to clutch the driving memberperiodically to said cam.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with worleholdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to actuate the latter toproduce edge stitches on a buttonhole, a cam, means actuated thereby toproduce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means andstitch-forming mechanism during the formation of the edge stitches,means also actuated thereby to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toproduce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, means forrotating said cam during the production ofthe edge stitches, a drivingmember, means operative continuously to give operative movement to thelatter, and means to clutch the driving member to the cam during theformation of the barring stitches.

13. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, oi stitchforming mechanism, means to actuate the latter toproduce edge stitches on a buttonhole,a cam, means actuated thereby toproduce a relative feeding movement between the work-holding means andstitch-forming mechanism during the formation of the edge stitches,means also actuated thereby to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toproduce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, meansforrotating said cam during the production of the edge stitches, adriving member, means operative continuously to give operative movementto the latter intermittently, and means to clutch the driving member tothe cam during the formation of the barring stitches.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation ofthese parts, a ring situated coaxially with said cam, means for rotatingsaid ring, and means operative periodically to clutch the ring to thecam whereby the cam is rotated by the ring.-

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation ofthese parts, a ring situated coaxially with said cam, means for rotatingsaid ring, means operative periodically to clutch the ring to the camwhereby the cam is rotated by the ring, and other means to rotate saidcam while the ring is unelutched therefrom.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of Workholding means, a rotary cam for controlling the operation ofthese parts, a ring situated co-axially with said cam, means for givingsaid ring an intermittent rotative movement, means operativeperiodically to clutch the ring to the cam whereby the cam is rotatedthrough the ring, and other means to rotate the cam intermittently whilethe ring is unclutched therefrom.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means 0perated thereby toproduce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edgestitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toproduce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situatedco-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means tooscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ringduring its movement in one direction and to release it from'the ringduring its movement in the opposite direc tion whereby the ring isrotated intermittently, and means operative periodically to clutch thering to the cam.

' 18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby toproduce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edgestitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toproduce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situatedco-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means tooscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ringduring its movement in one direction and to release it from the ringduring its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring isrotated intermittently, and means actuated by the controller to clutchthe ring periodically to the cam,

19. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of

stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby to produce arelative feeding movement during the formation of the edge stitches onthe buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism to producebarring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situatedco-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means tooscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ringduring its movement in one direction and to release it from the ringduring its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring isrotated intermittently, means operative periodically to clutch the ringto the cam, and other means to rotate said cam intermittently when thering is unclutched from the cam.

20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism, a cam, means operated thereby toproduce a relative feeding movement during the formation of the edgestitches on the buttonhole and to cause the stitch-forming mechanism toproduce barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, a ring situatedco-axially with said cam, an oscillatory controlling member, means tooscillate the same, means to clutch the controlling member to the ringduring its movement in one direction and to-release it from the ringduring its movement in the opposite direction whereby the ring isrotated intermittently, means actuated by the controller to clutch thering periodically to the cam, and other means to rotate said camintermittently when the ring is unclutched from the cam.

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connectingsaid driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, buttonhole-cuttingmechanism, a clutch for actuating the buttonhole-cutting mechanism, alock to hold said clutch disengaged, a clutch-releasing spring forreleasing the first-mentioned clutch, means operativeduring thestitching on a buttonhole to store up energy in said spring, means torelease said spring to permit it to function upon the completion of thestitchingon a buttonhole, and means actuated by the clutch-disengagingmovement of the spring to release said lock thereby to render thebuttonhole-cutting mechanism operative.

22. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting thedriving element to the stitch-forming mechanism, a clutch releasingspring, means operative during the stitching on a buttonhole to store upenergy in said spring, means to release the spring to permit it tofunction upon the completion of a but tonhole, buttonhole-cuttingmechanism, and

means to render said buttonhole-cutting mechanism operative by theclutch-releasing action of said clutch-releasing spring.

23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connecting thedriving element to the stitchforming mechanism, a spring tothrow theclutch into operation, a clutch-releasing spring capable of releasingthe clutch against the action of the first-named spring, means operativeduring the stitching on a buttonhole to store up energy in theclutch-releasing spring, means to release said spring and permit it tofunction upon the completion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cuttingmechanism, and means to render said buttonhole cutting mechanismoperative by the clutch-releasing action of said clutch-releasingspring.

24. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operatively connectingsaid driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, barring mechanism,a clutch-releasing spring, means actuated by the barring mechanism tostore up energy in said spring, means to permit said spring to functionupon the com letion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, andmeans to render the sameoperative by the clutch-releasing movement ofsaid sprin 25. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, of a driving element, a clutch for operativelyconnecting said driving element to the stitchforming mechanism, barringmechanism, a clutch-releasing spring, means actuated by the barringmechanism to store up energy in said spring, means to permit said springto function upon the completion of a buttonhole, buttonhole-cuttingmechanism, a latch normally holding said mechanism inoperative, andmeans to release the latch by the clutch-releasing movement of saidspring.

26, ln-apsewing machine, the combination with a needle-bar carrier, ofmeans to vibrate said carrier, and means to give the carrier a bodilymovement in addition to its vibrating movement, said means comprising arockshaft, an arm loosely mounted thereon, connections between said armand said carrier, an oscillating intermediate member connected to boththe shaft and the arm and constructed to transmit the oscillation of theshaft to the arm, and a cam for oscillating the shaft.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle-bar carrier, ofmeans to vibrate said carrier, and means to give said carrier a bodilymovement in addition to its vibrating movement, said means comprising arock shaft having a recess, an arm loosely mounted thereon, connectionsbetween said arm and carrier, an oscillating intermediate member havinga tooth operating in said recess, connections between said oscillatingmember and said arm, and a cam for oscillating the rock shaft. i

28. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needlebar carrier, ofmeans to vibrate said carrier, a toggle device connected to saidcarrier, a slotted vibrating arm, a link having one end connected tosaid toggle device and the other operating in the slot of the arm, anadjusting screw carried by said arm and by which the link isadjustedlongitudinally of the slot, and means to swing said arm therebyto move the needle carrier bodily.

29. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with wort-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle witha vibratory needle bar carrier, means to vibrate said carrier for theformation of the edge stitches on the buttonhole, means to produce arelative feeding movement between the work-holding means andstitch-forming mechanism during the production of the edge stitches on abuttonhole, and means separate from the abovenamed carrier-vibratingmeans to give said carrier an intermittent bodily movement in additionto and in the direction of its vibrating movement to produce barringstitches at the ends of the buttonhole, said feeding means operating toproduce a slow relative feeding movement during the formation of thebarring stitches.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with a cam by which theoperation of the machine is controlled, of oscillatory feeding means togive said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bringsaid cam to rest at the end of each forward step.

31. In a sewing machine, the con'ibination with a cam by which theoperation of the machine is controlled, of oscillatory feeding means togive said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bringsaid cam to rest at the end of each forward step, and means to causesaid feeding means to become operative when the cam is in onepredetermined position and to become inoperative when the cam hasreached another predetermined position.

32. The combination with a controlling cam, of oscillatory feeding meansto give said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positivelybring said cam to rest atthe end of each forward step. I

The combination with a controlling cam, of oscillatory feeding means togive said cam an intermittent feeding movement and to positively bringsaid cam to rest at the end of each forward step, and means to causesaid feeding means to become operative'when the cams is in onepredetermined position and to become inoperative when the cam reachesanother predetermined position.

34. In a buttonhole sewing machine conlLZO

